From Jan. 1 to Jan. 12, 2026, I traveled to the Falkland Islands and was in awe of its wildlife, in particular the penguins, and was blown away by its kind community. The other travelers I met and the local Falkland Islanders made it such a special trip. It is the perfect place to travel solo, as it is small enough to run into people you’ve met before, and the islands have a tight-knit community with a population of around 4,000. I visited for the penguins, but I’ll go back for the people (and more penguins. I can’t get enough penguins).
Here’s what this article covers:
- Why I chose the Falkland Islands and my initial research
- Basics about getting there
- What I wish I had known about flying there
- Island hopping once in the Falklands
- My lodging
- Packing and other preparations
- Internet
- Places I loved visiting in Stanley
- Day trips I took from Stanley
- Sea Lion Island
- The people exceeded my expectations
- Books to read
- Last notes
- Helpful resources
Why I chose the Falkland Islands and my initial research
I’ve wanted to go to Antarctica for many years to see its glaciers, penguins, and go where few people have been. I loved being on and near the glaciers in Alaska and thought I would enjoy a trip to the seventh continent. For various reasons, I couldn’t make that happen this year, but I was tired of waiting. A friend had gone on an Antarctic cruise and mentioned how he wished he had the opportunity to explore the Falkland Islands more. After more research, I learned they have five species of penguins. I’ve loved penguins since I was a child, so this excited me. If I could do the trip for less than $10,000 – about the lowest cost of an Antarctic cruise – then I was going to do it. I estimated the trip to cost about $6,000. With the Falklands being close to Antarctica, having five species of penguins, and being far less than $10,000, I was sold. Woo!
After learning more about the Falklands, I knew I wanted to visit more than one island. While all of the islands have something unique to offer, Sea Lion Island was calling my name. Between it and East Falkland Island, where Stanley is located, I had a chance to see all five species in one trip. Sea Lion is also a nature preserve, meaning it has no grazing livestock and is focused on restoring native habitats for the wildlife. It also has a lovely, comfortable lodge and has plenty of wildlife within walking distance.
To book accommodations outside of Stanley (and even sometimes in Stanley), you typically email the lodge/manager to get availability if you’re not using one of the Falkland travel agencies. I enjoy trip planning, and planning things yourself is usually more affordable, so I opted to go that route. That said, I do know that when our flight from Punta Arenas was rescheduled for the next day, Falkland Island Holidays was excellent for my fellow travelers, adjusting at least one person’s itinerary who was visiting three islands in one week to give her as much time as possible on the remote islands.
Basics about getting to the Falkland Islands
If you are traveling from the U.S., you really have one option: flying through Punta Arenas, Chile, on LATAM Airlines, with a stop in Santiago first. There is one flight a week every Saturday. LATAM also flies south once a month from Rio Gallegos, Argentina, but that will limit your travel dates. I opted to find available lodging first and then purchase airline tickets around those dates, which took me through Santiago and Punta Arenas.
I ended up booking a flight to Santiago on American and separately booking the LATAM flight from Santiago to Mount Pleasant, which automatically routes you through Punta Arenas. My flight to Chile left on a Thursday evening and arrived in Santiago on Friday morning. Early on Saturday morning, my flight to Punta Arenas took off. The 24-hour layover offered a buffer in case my initial flight to Chile was delayed.
Since you have one shot a week at getting to the Falklands or else you’re out a lot of money, you buy travel insurance. You also buy it because it’s required.
If you live in the UK, you can take the Airbridge from the Royal Air Force (RAF) Brize Norton military base to Mount Pleasant. The flight refuels on Ascension Island. From what I heard, it is not as cushy as a commercial flight (bland, repetitive meals), but it has its benefits (more direct route; soldiers helpful with luggage, which is especially nice if you’re traveling with small kids).
What I wish I had known about flying there
If you know what to expect ahead of time, you might avoid some of the disappointment I experienced, particularly in Punta Arenas. First, the flight from there to Mount Pleasant was slightly delayed, and then it was cancelled after most people had their passports stamped to leave the country. LATAM had extremely poor communication throughout the entire process, and we spent seven hours waiting in various lines, on and off, at the Punta Arenas airport that day. LATAM put some people in a hotel, others in hostels, and told the rest we were on our own (that was me). At one point, LATAM wasn’t going to give everyone a voucher. When they did, it took 20-30 minutes to get the voucher, and the redemption process is convoluted.
Here’s what I wish I had known going to Punta Arenas:
- Flights to Mount Pleasant are often delayed because of wind. One scientist had been stuck in Punta Arenas for four days because of wind. That wasn’t the issue with my flight (plane issue), but it is common for flights to be pushed. I wish I had researched Punta Arenas a little ahead of time to identify potential places to stay, the average taxi price to get to the city (the airport website is outdated), and something I might want to do if I had some free time. Given my situation, I was scrambling to understand how safe the city is for a solo woman traveler, how much it should cost to get into the city, and where I should stay. I ended up having a nice evening and walking to a beautiful viewpoint in, but I could’ve done without the added stress.
- Be prepared to wait in line after line after line. Wait, there’s another line. Lol. By the end of the trip, I was at peace with lines. When arriving in Punta Arenas, I deboarded and had to get my boarding pass from LATAM for the flight to Mount Pleasant, go through security (short line), and then customs to get my passport stamped as a record of me leaving Chile. At Mount Pleasant, you’re in line for customs to enter the country. Then, most people, regardless of how they booked their travel, board large buses from Penguin Travel to travel to Stanley. Even if you went through customs first, you’re waiting on the bus until everyone finishes before you leave the airport. Bottom line: Everyone gets everywhere at the same time, so get used to waiting in line and accepting you’ll all get there when you get there.
- Think about food ahead of time on your travel days to and from the Falklands. I experienced more logistical issues with food on my return flights. There is a food kiosk in the Mount Pleasant airport, but the selection is limited. I recommend ordering a packed lunch from your hotel or stopping at a place like Teaberry (this is what I did) before you get picked up, since you will not have time to grab any snacks in Punta Arenas on the way back. You go through Chilean customs, get a new boarding pass to Santiago, and then board the same plane immediately. They might even call you name on the loudspeaker. 🙃
- Everyone leaves at the same time for the flight from Mount Pleasant to Punta Arenas. The bus that takes everyone to the airport often picks up locals and tourists, and you go back to waiting in many lines with your fellow travelers. You find out the day before what time you’ll be picked up. While the bus picked me up from my hotel at 11:40 a.m., the pick-up time at the same hotel the following weekend was 8 a.m. Apparently, the airport wanted to process all the departures before the flight from Punta Arenas arrived. I’m not sure how often this happens.
- You cannot have water in carry-on luggage leaving Santiago to the U.S. They search everyone’s bags after scanning your boarding pass at the gate. It is very annoying.
Island hopping once in the Falklands
Since I was going to Sea Lion Island from Stanley, I had to take a flight from Falkland Islands Government Air Service, a.k.a. FIGAS. You fly on eight-seater planes, and it’s the best airport experience you’ll ever have (walk in, weigh your luggage and yourself, sit down).
It works like an airborne taxi service. The day before your flight, you’ll learn when your flight takes off, and you need to be either at the airport or lodge 30 minutes before your flight so you’re ready to go when the pilot arrives. Your lodge manager will have the schedule, or you can see it on the FIGAS Facebook page. On my way to Sea Lion, we made a stop at Bleaker Island to pick up someone who was also going to Sea Lion. On the way back, the plane flew directly from Sea Lion to Stanley, as it was full of people heading there. You won’t know if you’ll have stops until the schedule comes out. We landed on the grass at Bleaker and on a runway at Sea Lion. Fun!
To book a flight, you email FIGAS with some basic information. My round-trip flight from Stanley to Sea Lion cost $388. There are weight restrictions, so you may need to leave a bag at your accommodation in Stanley. I left a backpack at the Malvina House Hotel. However, I might’ve been fine bringing it since my camera bag and suitcase weighed 18 kilos, which is two kilos under the maximum limit.
What else to know:
- The planes are loud, and FIGAS provides earplugs. However, if your ears are sensitive, you might benefit from having noise-cancelling headphones.
- You don’t get to pick where you sit because they need to balance the weight on the plane. A friend was lucky and got to sit in the front seat on two of her three flights, while I was in the back for both of mine.
My lodging in the Falkland Islands
In Stanley, there are a variety of places to stay. You can do an Airbnb-style place, which is what they call “self-catered,” or a hotel. Because I planned my trip six months in advance (late by most definitions), many options were already taken. I decided to splurge and stayed at what might be the bougiest place, Malvina House Hotel. I was lured in by its location and restaurant. I wanted to be comfortable and not have to think much about essentials.
Breakfast was included in the cost, and it’s a short, flat walk to the center of town. If you need ADA accommodations, please make sure you book a wheelchair-accessible room and make a note in your reservation. There is an elevator chair lift in one of the hotel’s two buildings. However, there are small sets of stairs in multiple places, including when entering the restaurant. Even though I was on the first floor of the second building, I still had to climb a few small sets of steps to get to my room. While nice, it is not a five-star hotel if that’s what you’re accustomed to. You are still on a remote island. I’m not used to staying at five-star hotels, so I found it lovely.
The Sea Lion Island lodge was magnificent. I don’t want to oversell it, but I was impressed with the food, service, and space. We even got whole apples in our packed lunches! Think about how many people were involved to get fresh fruit to tiny Sea Lion – a modern marvel. I wouldn’t expect fresh fruit anywhere in the Falklands, so appreciate it if you get it.
The Sea Lion team works hard seven days a week to provide guests with an incredible experience. Micky, one of the lodge owners, has a great sense of humor and indulged me when I asked for a picture with him and a book about caracaras that mentions him.
Packing and other preparations
For a comprehensive breakdown of the clothes I brought, check out my article about what to pack for the Falklands.
Here are other things I did to prepare for my trip:
I bought virtual SIM cards for Chile and the Falklands. This was really helpful in Santiago and Punta Arenas. I got my Chile SIM card from Sim Options and bought data only. I couldn’t get my SIM card to work in the islands and didn’t want to troubleshoot tech on my trip after the rough start. I was able to buy a WiFi card at Sea Lion Lodge, and Malvina offered free WiFi with the stay.
I ordered British pounds from my bank prior to leaving, so I would have cash on hand for various things. They accept Falkland Island pounds and British pounds in the Falkland Islands. However, they do not accept Falkland Island pounds in Britain. This means that you should spend any Falkland Island coins and notes you receive, unless you want to take them home as a souvenir or you intend to travel back.
I don’t think it’s essential to have cash, but I would recommend getting some. One tour guide requested cash only, and it was nice to have cash to tip tour guides, hotel staff, and servers. Plus, it’s fun to donate anything leftover to Falklands Conservation’s penguin statue at the airport on your way out. (I don’t have a photo of the penguin because no photos are allowed at Mount Pleasant.)
Internet – be prepared to be without
One benefit of being in the Falkland Islands is escaping the noise of everyday life. Right now, there is only one cell/internet provider, Sure, but people are also starting to access the internet through Starlink. If adoption of that takes off, it could improve internet access. I wanted internet to communicate with tour drivers and my family and friends to let them know how I was doing (and share cute penguin photos).
To get WiFi, unless the place you’re staying at provided access, you had to buy a Sure card, which was expensive. It was 10£ for 100 minutes. Even worse, the logout URL didn’t work, so you had to turn off WiFi on your phone when you were done. However, your session was only considered over after 5 minutes of inactivity, meaning you stopped using the internet but Sure continued to count those 5 minutes against your total time left. That eats away at the 100 minutes quickly.
The speed is also slow. I was able to send short video clips while in Stanley, where speed was a little faster, but I mainly sent text messages on iMessage and WhatsApp and a few photos. Sending videos on Sea Lion Island was out of the question.
Cell service is not available outside of Stanley, and I think many vehicles have transponders/radios to communicate. That is how the tour drivers talked to one another on the way to Volunteer Point and how the pilots let lodge owners on other islands know they are about to land.
Places I loved visiting in Stanley
I can’t go through every place I visited, but here are a few places I recommend in Stanley. Be mindful that nearly every place closes what would be considered early in other places. The gas station closes, the bank closes at 2 p.m. on weekdays, the grocery store closes at 8 p.m. – you get the picture. Places might also open or have longer hours if any cruise ships are in port.
The post office
The postcard selection is quite good, and they are a decent price (60p). Mailing postcards is 80 pence. That’s pretty reasonable given how far the mail has to travel. I had a lot of fun writing postcards to friends, family, and myself to give them an unexpected souvenir from this incredible place that is far from them. I also got a great deal on postcards at Sea Lion Island (40p) in case you’re going there, too.
Studio 52
This lovely gift shop has art, high-quality souvenirs, and beautiful products. I absolutely love the designs by 25-year islander Julie Halliday. While I didn’t get to meet her, I did interact with Leslie multiple times. She warmly greeted everyone into the gallery and was so helpful. I got my mom and sister gifts here that they love and picked up a mug and penguin print for myself. As an art and small business lover, Studio 52 was a highlight. I can’t recommend it enough.
Beyond Julie’s designs, she also features other work from other local artists. Plus, it’s close to the jetty for cruise ship passengers to stop by on their way to or from other places.
Falklands Conservation
Since I was traveling to the Falklands for nature, I visited the organization’s website ahead of my trip. I stopped by the small office to adopt a penguin for my nephews. The charity has a small selection of books, greeting cards, and pins for purchase to support their work. The entrance was a little hard to find, as it’s not through the front door of the house they occupy. It’s around the side of the house.
Falkland Islands Historic Dockyard Museum
This is a fantastic museum, with maritime, natural, and social historical information and artifacts. I didn’t get to spend as much time as I wanted, but I’m glad I stopped by.
The Wool Shed
Debi, a friend I made on my trip, and I had fun amusing Jeannette in this cute store, which features handmade items made from Falkland Islands wool. I bought an ear-warming headband, and Debi got a beanie. The Wool Shed has socks, skeins, scarves, blankets, and more.
Teaberry Café
Teaberry is open mornings through lunch during the week and on cruise ship days. They offer delicious pastries and a variety of sandwiches, making them a great option for a quick and affordable lunch. They’re near the Dockyard Museum and Falkland Collectibles.
Falkland Collectibles
A small, interesting shop with an owner who is happy to talk with you about collecting, currency, stamps, maps, and more. If you’re looking for mint-condition penguin coins, talk to Phil. I also had fun trying to collect penguin coins that were not in mint condition. During my trip, I was able to find eight of the 10 Falkland Island coins featuring penguins.
Waterfront Kitchen Café
I absolutely loved the vibe of this restaurant. The pistachio-and-parmesan-crusted toothfish and apple crumble pie were incredible. I wish I could have them again!
I loved the atmosphere and food in the Waterfront so much that I went there twice.
Malvina House Restaurant
This was on par with Waterfront. It’s a more upscale place (but you can dress casually) with delicious food and a separate cocktail/bar lounge if you don’t want a full meal. Their baked Alaska was exquisite. Yum.
Day trips I took from Stanley
Both these trips involved hiring a driver with a Land Rover or similar vehicle and going off-roading. My goal was to see all 5 species of penguins that call the Falklands home, and I was able to do that through these trips.
Volunteer Point
This is a must-do trip for anyone visiting Stanley. At Volunteer Point, you’ll be able to see colonies of king, magellanic, and gentoo penguins. I was having trouble finding a guide to take me so I ended up booking through a third party, making it about $100 more expensive and having to go with cruise ship passengers. If possible, I recommend avoiding that. I had to wait more than 1.5 hours for the cruise passengers to disembark before the two-hour ride to Volunteer Point. Plus, we had to leave Volunteer Point so they could get back to their ship. I also learned that visitors can go more places at VP if you’re not with the crowd of cruise passengers. I still loved seeing the king penguins and am glad I went.
Note: There is 45 minutes to an hour of off-roading on this tour, making it quite the adventure. When I say off-roading, I mean navigating over low shrubs and mountainous terrain, making the vehicle and driver work. My driver was skilled, and no one on his crew got stuck in the mud. The tour companies typically go out as a team in case someone gets stuck. If you get stuck, it’s okay; they know how to get the vehicles back on track. Also, there is a bathroom about halfway to VP an hour in.
Cape Bougainville
Cape Bougainville (pronounced boo-ɡən-vil) was my opportunity to see rockhoppers, hopefully macaroni, and maybe even a hybrid rockaroni penguin. I was really lucky and saw all three, plus a cross-species couple. My car was the only vehicle out there, making it a really peaceful experience. It didn’t rain on us, and the wind wasn’t too bad. The bathroom stop on this trip was behind some big stones. You do what you gotta do.
My driver, Ken from Estancia Excursions, was an easygoing fourth-generation Falkland Islander who I enjoyed chatting with and freely shared information about his experiences. I booked this directly with Estancia.
Sea Lion Island
While I loved the civilization in Stanley, I also loved the remoteness of Sea Lion. Being able to walk to see the penguin colonies at any time of day was freeing and allowed for different experiences than day tours. I opted to see the droves of gentoos coming in from the ocean at sunset each night, and it was a magical experience. Watching the sheer number come ashore and track them as they jump in and out of the water was an experience I won’t forget. It was worth braving the 30 mph winds and fickle rain to witness.
The lodge also offers tours for about $70, which I highly recommend. Lauren gave our tour, and she delighted us with her knowledge about the wildlife. She had a good eye for spotting birds and then sharing fascinating information about them. She pointed out a silvery grebe with two hidden chicks on its back. We waited and were rewarded by getting to see a parent feed them. The tour offers highlights of the island and may identify places you want to go back to, like the rockhopper and sea lion colonies. You can also pay for a ride to the rockhoppers and walk back to the lodge.
Other things to know:
- No shoes are allowed inside the lodge, so consider bringing slippers to keep your feet warm.
- The water pressure in the showers is intentionally low, as all the water comes from a natural spring on the island.
- You’ll wake up with the sun unless you have a sleep mask.
- Breakfast and dinner are served at set times, unless you make other arrangements.
The people exceeded my expectations
During the process of booking my arrangements, I got the feeling that Falklanders were a tight-knit, trusting community. I expected my trip to be different than visiting a big city, and they delivered. Falklanders look out for each other and extend that to kind, appreciative tourists.
When my flight was cancelled, a local asked if I needed them to call anyone on the islands to let them know. Another explained what a normal experience in the Punta Arenas airport was while we waited in a sluggish line. A family I met at Sea Lion told me the best time to see the gentoos coming in after I expressed awe at the tail end I had seen the night before.
This is not to say that everyone I interacted with was incredible or generous, but on the whole, I loved the people as much as the penguins. It’s because of them that I’m considering another trip there.
Books to read
These are books I either read to get excited or while on the trip.
- A Most Remarkable Creature: The Hidden Life and Epic Journey of the World’s Smartest Birds of Prey by Jonathan Meiburg. This nonfiction book is not one I normally would pick up, so I’m grateful a friend gave it to me after learning it explores the history of the caracara. Penguin Random House calls it “a hybrid of science writing, travelogue, and biography.” The Falklands are home to the striated caracara, also called Johnny rooks, which are incredible birds. This book gave me an appreciation for them, so I was considerably more excited when I saw them on my trip. Sadly, I didn’t have a personal encounter like those described in the book.
- Wild Dark Shore by Charlotte McConaghy. While this well-written work may not be the happiest novel, it takes place on a fictional island near Antarctica. I was recommending it to people before I knew I was going to the Falklands, and I think it’s geography makes it appropriate for this trip.
- Penguins: The Ultimate Guide (The Second Edition) by Tui de Roy, Mark Jones and Julie Cornthwaite. Beautiful photography and fun facts about all the current species of penguins.
Last notes
Visiting the Falklands was worth the money, time, and energy. Exploring the Falklands over the course of a week rather than a one-day stop on a cruise ship was a much different experience that gave me a more intimate look at life there and a greater appreciation for it. I really hope I am able to visit again.
Helpful resources
- What to pack for the Falkland Islands
- Falkland Islands Tourist Board
- Solo travel post about visiting the Falklands on Reddit
- Andy Pollard from Falklands Nature
- Sea Lion Island
